Work Soil

* This part can be very challenging due to the varying soil conditions across the valley. Some gardeners experience very loose draining, sandy soils that lack organic material and any moisture or nutrient holding capacity. For Others, (probably most of us) we get heavy clay soils that drain very poorly, and actually hold too much moisture and often times bind up nutrients and prevent them from being absorbed by the roots of your plants. These clay soils also tend to be alkaline in pH reaction as well.
* The best and really only thing you can do to correct a poor soil structure (structure refers to the proportion of sand, silt and clay present in the soil) condition is add organic matter. This is usually in the form of compost. Some people will also add Gypsum to severe clay conditions to help in two ways: the first being to lower the pH of the soil and the other to flocculate the very fine clay particles, loosening them up so they don’t continue to lay flat on top of one-another.
* The best thing to do is take a composite sample (collection of small samples with a clean trowel, from different spots in your landscape) of the soil from your planting area down to your local University Extension office where they can run an analysis for you and tell you what type of soil structure you have; often times they’ll also give detailed recommendations for your specific situation.
* At the very least, add some organic compost or planting mix blended with the soil excavated from your planting hole, a little slow release fertilizer (i.e. Osmocote) per the recommended rates and backfill around your newly planted plant with this blend. Typically a blend of 1/3 compost/planting mix is mixed with 2/3 native soil to backfill.
* In severe situations, consider planting your plants a little high than the natural soil grade; approximately 1-11/2” above. When doing this it will be critical to include a 2-3 inch layer of composted mulch, or bark mulch to maintain moisture around the top part of your plant. This technique also has another benefit though, that is over time this mulch layer will decompose releasing nutrients to the soil, as well as raising your soil level slightly and creating a whole new layer (or horizon) that is often completely non-existent in our growing region; the organic or “A” horizon.